What a country!
Colombia is an amazing place. If you read the Daily Mail, you´d never come here yet I´ve never felt safer or more satisfied than here. From trekking through pristine jungle to diving the Caribbean sea, Colombia doesn´t dissapoint. But what did I get up to?
Well I started in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cartagena in the north of the country, having flown from London to Bogotá (via Madrid) on the 21st January 2010. Cartagena is a cross between the medinas of Marrakech and a quaint village in the South of France. It´s a walled city, so no reason to get lost (I did, several times) with battlements all around and gorgeous little tavernas and flower lined cobbled streets. I loved the place. Spent a week there with Tom, Matt and a few others. A few dramas (as expected) – had to bribe the police on day two, went through my second pack of immodium by day three, discovered the delights of a rehydration drink called Paedialyte (acquired taste..) and so forth.
I then headed up the coast to a tiny beach place called Tagganga. Lots of travelers and partying on the beach. Did a couple of ok dives (nothing dramatic) and then prepared to go on a 5 day trek to the Lost City of Ciudad Perdidas.
Lost City Trek – Ciudad Perdidas
5 days wondering through thick Colombian military and paramilitary controlled jungle with a lunatic for a guide – I knew already I was going to love this trek. Set in the northern Colombian territory of the Tayrona people, this trek is the Machu Picchu of Colombia. Two girls on two preceding days had been bitten by venomous snakes and had to be rescued. One of them was taken out by helicopter but the weather was too bad for the other so apparently they dropped the anti venom from the helicopter and took her out on a donkey for two days. But we weren´t going to let that put us off, oh no. The trek involved days of walking over jungle terrain, multiple river crossings (see the picture above!) and overnighting in hammocks and bunks in small huts en route. Seriously fun stuff. After 3 days of walking we got to the ruins (via a cocaine factory which was a unique experience).
Day 1 was nothing short of a disgrace. The first rainfall for the region in 40 days and we got it. We got it a lot. It ended up quite fun, sliding down on your backside, avoiding deadly root-rock combinations and generally mud surfing your way to freedom.
We crossed through pristine jungle en route to a number of camps where we´d rest for the night before carrying on.
Ocassionaly we would be able to stop and swim at various points along the river.
The ancient Tayrona people must have known gringos were coming (or they had a bloody good sense of humour) as they put 1200 steps in right at the end of the hike to get to the magnificent spectacle at the top; the lost city of Ciudad Perdidas.
But when we finally got to the top it was well worth the effort. Stunning views across this 3km long site. We stayed up for a night before heading back down. Fireflies abundant, the whole place felt magical.
Tayrona National Park
I stayed with the trek group for a few days and we decided to head to the coast for a bit of post trek downtime. Everyone seemed to rave about a national park called Tayrona so we gave it a go. Unfortunately it was either the poor weather, the painful and long walk in or the refugee type camp that we eventually got to that didn´t really live up to the reputation Tayrona had so we stayed for a night and went back to the familiar beach town of Tagganga where we´d been before. An evening out of cross dressing, muchos rum and coke and the odd bit of dancing got everyone´s spirits back up again and a great night was had.
Unfortunately that was it for Columbia and I packed my bags and flew to Quito, Ecuador. I´ve been lucky to have travelled a decent way around the world but never have I met as nice and genuine people in such a short amount of time. I loved Colombia.
Hello Mate!
Columbia sounds amazing, I’m so glad you’re having a great time! Thank God for Immodium! 🙂
Sending Much love back to from Patrick & Kat x
Mr. Krefta,
I am glad you have a great time in a tiby area of our beutiful country.
Believe me you have to go back many times, to visit el “Eje Cafetero”, Cundinamarca y Boyaca, Medellin, Cali and the Eastern Sabanas.
It was a shame that I could not stay longer on your leaving dinks, but I put some friends in stand by in Colombia (Santa Marta, Medellin and Bogota), as I was not aware of your exact itinerarty.
South America is a blast!!
Enjoy it.
Very best regards,
Sergio
Sounds just magnificent, shame that I am too old to do something like your 5 day trek. Maybe on a horse, but still the snakes will be there. How did you sleep and did you get to eat any cocoa cola leaves whilst in the jungle?
Lucky you are not in Chile.
Keep them coming.
The Pasha.
ps off to Fiji for 3 weeks in April.
Can’t believe I haven’t discovered your blog sooner Krefta! I’ll definitely keep up with your adventures now xxx